I'M BACK! with A Fork in the Road: Paris

It's been awhile! I took up working in kitchens in both NYC and Houston, so time was limited to blog.
Most recently, I traveled to Paris and had an insanely fabulous trip with my family.  This post will just highlight some of my favorite parts.

We all know the fruit and vegetables taste fresher (and different!) and are brighter colored in the EU. These were no exception.

See those cherry tomatoes? The best! We were buying almost daily. Sweet and just cracked perfectly when you bit down.

The beautiful Romanesco and purple artichoke

Flaky, buttery croissant from Des Gateaux et Du Pain in St. Germain
A shoppe with perfect pastries and magnificently showcased. 

 This was probably my favorite part of the trip.  Not only did I wake up every morning and run with my brother and get to 'see' the city in a different way, but we also walked through many of the open-air markets. It was orgasmic every time!  Here is a link of the markets throughout Paris: http://www.parisianlocal.com/a-list-of-street-markets-in-paris-by-day-of-the-week/

Early in the morning, I would see the fishmonger cracking open sea urchin and little old women eating it with tiny silver spoons.

Rod enjoying his well-earned banana Nutella crepe after a run.

Lights of my life, my parents.

Far and away the best meal we had in Paris. Waknine is an Asian influenced French restaurant. The halibut, steak tatare and roasted potatoes were superb!

Get to Paris in the Spring at least once in your lifetime!

And a HUGE thank you to my dad for taking my brother and myself on a trip we will never forget!

Bia

Under the Williamsburg bridge sits Bia, a Vietnamese grill and beer garden (with a loud, but fun, rooftop).  We wanted some small plates after having happy hour oysters at Maison Premiere and Bia was a perfect choice for some small dishes.

Summer spring roll with shrimp - A light and balanced spring roll with the right amount of cilantro, greens, pickled carrot and shrimp.  The best of the appetizers!

Vegetable dumplings - These were a little on the gummy side, but not detrimental to the greens that packed tons of flavor.

Steamed roast pork buns - Pork buns can be a hit or miss and these were a miss.  Although the pork was good, buns so rarely have a good pork:bun ratio.

Vermicelli noodles with quartered spring rolls and grilled pork - I adore vermicelli dishes, but could have done without both the pork and fried spring rolls.  They didn't provide any flavoring and the noodles with greens, cilantro, onions, peanuts, and rice vinegar/fish sauce was perfect on its own.

All this with 2 beers - $40

A Fork in the Road: Bellissimo (Houston, TX)

Family-owned Bellissimo is in Houston's lovely Heights and also happens to be one of the more neighborhood-y joints in the area.  This growing neighborhood seems to be attracting more restaurateur types, so this is a distraction from the loud, indulgent menu restaurants.  It is a dark, quiet atmosphere that is BYOB (see my smile) with heavy Italian fare.  One thing I love about this menu is make-your-own pizza and pasta which can translate into putting together an entree pretty much any way you want.

Garlic shrimp appetizer - large shrimp in a puddle of butter, garlic and lemon. 

Red Snapper with a white wine, caper sauce served with angel hair pasta and sauteed spinach.  The diced tomatoes just don't do anything for this dish.  Unless tomatoes are vine-ripe, just forget them all together! 

It looks like alot 'cause it is alot!

I might have gone a tad overboard ordering the Red Snapper served with sautéed shrimp, crab meat, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil served in a white wine lemon butter sauce.  Not only did I get a hefty seafood portion, I just had to try the namesake pasta jalapeno fettuccine served with grilled chicken, black beans, fresh cilantro, diced jalapenos and tomatoes served in a Parmesan white wine butter sauce.  The pasta was a bit of a disappointment.  I think perhaps I was looking for a cream jalapeno sauce?  I don't know what I was thinking, but the 'jalapeno' pasta had no kick and dry to boot.  My suggestion is go with angel hair and a green.

Dessert special - Bavarian berry cream cake...lighter than you would think and delicious! 

BYOB, moist fish and price make Bellissimo a favorite; though I wish they would change the plate presentation.  It looks like something I'd get in a casino restaurant. 

A Fork in the Road: Local Foods (Houston, TX)

 

I have been waiting a lonnnggg time to see Houston finally beef up with inexpensive and tasty lunch spots.  It used to just be places like Goode Company BBQ/Taqueria, Cafe Express, Nit Noi, but now you have a places like Relish and Local Foods, brought to you by Chef Dylan Murray of Benjy's.

Chef Murray uses the local farms and seasonal foods to create his menu and I love the concept of any of the sandwiches can be prepared as salads.  Unfortunately, I wish I had gone with my gut and ordered the crispy chicken sandwich because the turkey sandwich components were there, but somehow missed the mark.  The pretzel roll, amazing.  Freshly sliced turkey, present, but dry and the accoutrements did not help.

Since my brother's discovery, and obsession, began last year with banh mi's, that is what he ordered.  He mentioned what I was thinking, which was the $10.5 price tag of the sandwich which was the 'most expensive banh mi' he's ever ordered.  This is usually a sign it won't be as good as you want it to be.  It was good, not great.  The element that saved these sandwiches, and their price tags, were the sides.  My favorite was the kale with raisins, pinenuts and parmesan.  The savory parmesan paired nicely with the sweet raisins. The four bean side with edamame, kidney beans, green beans and garbanzos was hefty, but good.  Cabbage slaw with edamame, bean sprouts and lemongrass vinaigrette was a interesting take on slaw and texturally.   Less impressive were the beets, but I suppose I don't really love shredded beets, with pistachios or not.

Now, ironically, what I thought were the best foods, were the salads.

The Spicy Szechuan Tofu salad with broccoli, sprouts, black rice and a mint-kaffir vinaigrette was lighter than you would think, although it drowned in dressing.

Saved the best for last....arugula, shrimp, wheatberries, cranberries, Texas honey pecans, pecorino and lemon-thyme vinaigrette. YUM YUM YUM.  Light and easily one of the best shrimp salads I've had.

Who wouldn't want to go Local Foods when you can get fresh ingredients AND see this little guy?

SHUTTERED A Fork in the Road: Concepcion (Houston, TX)

Although I don't share Alison Cook's immense enthusiasm for Concepcion.....yet, I do believe it is deserving of a visit, or two, or three.  The concept is Peruvian tapas and I think helps move Houston into more cutting edge dining.   Chef Jonathan Jones ideas are explosive!   Jones takes a multitude of ingredients and creates dishes without over-complicating.  I'm super ticked I somehow tossed the menu on my arrival back to NYC, but I will try and and explain these wonderful dishes.

Sikil Pak - Spicy Yucatan pumpkin hummus with habanero.  At first, I wasn't crazy about ordering hummus here, but wow!  The spices and texture of this hummus was super interesting.

3rd Coast Ceviche - Fresh snapper ceviche with radish, red onion and cucumber.  One of Concepcion's strengths.  The fish was indeed fresh, but didn't melt in your mouth: however, had a masterful balance of citrus, chilis and herbs.

Pulpo con Nada - Poached octopus sits in a pot, stews and essentially cooks in its own juices.  I know what they were trying to do here, which is what Chef Masato Shimizu of 15 East in NYC does outrageously well.  Unfortunately, the edges were soft and chewy, but the core was far too tough.

Salt crusted prawns cooked in shell with garlic kumquat mojo.  This is how a prawn should taste and hella delicious!

Snapper, oyster mushrooms with chimichurri (most of y'all think chimi only goes on steak.  Wrong!) in a light foam.

Braised short rib, shitake mushrooms and fried yuca.  I thought the best part of this dish was the yuca :-0  I just couldn't taste the chimichurri and overall bland.

Barbacoa tacos -  Juicy, tender lamb cooked overnight in avocado leaf, red chilies and tamarind with homemade blue corn tortillas and pickled onions. 

These dishes are far from tapas portions and well-priced, so get there while the gettin' is good!  Additionally, this has to be one of the best patios in Houston.

A Fork in the Road: Masraff's (Houston, TX)

Dining at Masraff's on Post Oak is significantly different from the old, rustic free-standing Masraff's, but not in terms of cuisine (which is still top notch).  It is now somewhat a Vegas dining experience with its colorful lighting fixtures and super contemporary furniture, but has great energy nonetheless.
Not often do I find glitzy restaurants serving large portions also falling into the 'high-quality' category, but this is where the Masraff father/son duo succeed.

I begin with the Boston Wedge Salad with English Cucumber Relish, feta and aged balsamic.  Quite a refreshing salad and was not too filling. 

Baby spinach, creamed goat cheese, onion confit, walnuts tossed with garlic vinaigrette.

Loved their take on Caprese with Kumato tomatoes.  Kumatos are a little less acidic and balanced nicely with the mozzarella.

Rich avocado soup with lump crab meat.

Normally, I have a severe aversion to tuna tartare.  Chopped up tuna mixed with avocado has never excited me, but this tuna tartare was divine.  Every tatare dish has now been ruined because this one is simply amazing.  Not only is the quality of fish superb, but the presentation beautifully created with wakami goma, campari tomato and tobiko vinaigrette.

Perfectly seared lump crab cake, beurre blanc, red wine reduction, and saffron aioli. 

An unfortunate dry Nova Scotia halibut, butternut squash, baby carrots, charred green cauliflower, yellow beet and tobiko vinaigrette.

Filet Mignon al a Plancha, fingerling potatoes, baby green beans, smoked bacon and mushroom ragout.  Deliciouso!

This special fish loaded with crab meat and shrimp atop of farro, a well-received accompaniment, and spinach was a nice combination.  This is definitely enough for two (though maybe not in Texas).

Passion fruit, lemon and strawberry sorbet terrine.  Creamy, tart and sweet!

I was super excited for this dessert.  The peach creme brulee.  What was supposed to be Texas peach creme brulee, was actually brulee in peaches and not executed very well, sadly enough.  The peaches were very hard and not sweet at all.

A Fork in the Road: Jestine's Kitchen (Charleston, SC)

I wanted Jestine's to be good, like ridiculously good.  Plus, it has a great story of the recipes handed down through generations in addition to Mrs. Jestine Mathews living to 112.  One hundred twelve!  I wanted the long, scorching hot line to be worth the wait; but I was disappointed and as many people have stated before me, it is a tourist trap. 

A cool cucumber salad was served as soon as we sat down and it actually was refreshing.  The cornbread served on a plate of honey and hot butter was bland (the real kernels didn't make a difference). 

The pecan-crusted fried chicken had zero inkling of pecan, or salt for that matter, however, they do serve up half a chicken.  The green beans, fried okra and collards were average, but nothing I couldn't get at a local cafeteria in Houston. 

The shrimp gumbo was decent, but was texturally more like a stew with the tomato/shrimp/okra combo being the only resemblance of 'gumbo'. 

I'll mention the Coca-Cola chocolate cake, but only order it if you are fancying the feeling of your teeth falling out from sugar.

A Fork in the Road: Stringray Cafe (New Bern, NC)

My family headed to North Carolina a month ago for my cousin's wedding in New Bern, NC.  I am not really sure why I was never excited to visit New Bern because I really enjoy coastal towns in North Carolina.  Our hotel was in the marina and my brother an I needed a quick snack (i.e. meal) before the wedding began.  We took a ten minute stroll down the main street in the marina to Stingray Cafe. 

My brother

Let me preface this post by saying, if you do not like fried food, Stingray is not your place.  Although Stingray does offer some grilled food, I'd say your better bet for seafood of the non-fried kind would be next door at Tryon Palace.  We walk in and the place has a cutesy fisherman's boat nautical feel completed with buoys, nets, helms and let's not forget the indoor humidity. 

As I've mentioned before, North Carolina's bread basket is actually a hush puppy basket and these too, were served hot hot hot with a nice crisp crust.  Gotta love the Texas Pete hot sauce on the table!

My fried snapper, oysters and okra with a side of finely chopped cole slaw.  I love this traditional Southern mayo-based, sweet, vinegary cole slaw.  It's my absolute favorite!  The fish batter had a dash of pepper and the oysters were nice and big.

Rod's shrimp, oysters, okra and fries. 

All fried and all good with a side of sweet tea that was sweet enough for dessert.

New Bern is actually the second oldest city in North Carolina with tons of Colonial history that is evident in the town itself.  The architecture of the homes and original hitching posts all around.  New Bern is also the birthplace of Pepsi.

Ninth Ward NYC

We stopped in at Ninth Ward for drinks and bites on the way to Webster Hall to see a show; unfortunately, I forgot to snap some photos, but it is worth a little write-up.  I must say, I've always wanted to try this place...it seems right up my alley since I spent 2-3 times a year traveling to New Orleans on family vacations.  I am certainly passionate about Southern food, and especially Cajun Southern food and drink. 
Getting to your perfectly situated booth or table involves walking down a dark hallway eerily suggestive of New Orleans' voodoo shops with the chachkis showcased behind wrought-iron.  The cocktails were quite impressive, particularly The Bloody, Bloody Mary infused with garlic-basil vodka; but more impressive was the freshly grated horseradish.  I was hesitant ordering the chicken sandwich, but after what else arrived at the table, I was happy I didn't back out.  The Bleu Bayou Burger was tiny and served with spicy praline chocolate bacon and melted bleu cheese, but guess what?  There wasn't any bleu cheese and the chocolate bacon was literally covered in flavorless chocolate and zero praline spiciness.  The 'paillard' chicken sandwich on ciabatta, a fairly plain dish, was at least consistent.  The herb mayo paired nicely with the juicy chicken.  All the sandwiches come with chips, but you can chose thin fries if you shell out $2 extra (it isn't worth it). 

An appetizer special, Gators on Horseback (bacon-wrapped jalapenos stuffed with shrimp and cheese), were a total let-down.  I've had better jalapenos stuffed with plain cream cheese at a pub.  I didn't taste any shrimp, but given the burger was missing cheese, these might have as well.

For happy hour, chicken sandwich or shrimp po-boy (lots of shrimp), Ninth Ward is worth the trip.  It has a cool, dark vibe inside as well as a lovely outdoor patio for warmer weather.

http://ninthwardnyc.com/main.html

The Redhead

The Redhead may simply have the most perfect, gourmand Southern brunch in New York. In a city exploding with Southern fare, most notably fried chicken and grits, the competition is heavy.

Strolling into The Redhead is like strolling into a New Orleans speakeasy with its dark, wood panels and dimly lit space, but it's certainly no secret. They have been in the spotlight, due in part to their crawfish boils in the garden, as well as drawing in folks for brunch. Luckily, I made to brunch before they decidedly switched to dinner and late night menus only.

The monkey bread is glazed with a sweet frosting, but you haven't had monkey bread until you've had it at Neiman Marcus (that's right, the department store)! Neiman Marcus made monkey bread famous, serving it warm with homemade strawberry butter. It's called monkey bread because the technique of eating is somewhat reminiscent of a monkey pulling bread apart. A good way to start brunch is with dessert, but this might have been a little sweet for my 'buds.

Moving along to a dish which was a beautiful cacophony of ground meat, yukon gold and purple potatoes topped with a sunny-side up egg and cauliflower salata. It was possibly one of the most visually stunning comfort food dishes I've ever seen, then had the pleasure of consuming.

Ordinarily, I do not order sweet breakfast items, but the lemon ricotta pancakes were delightful and with just the slightest hint of lemon. The fresh fruit compote was enough to substitute for syrup.

The Redhead's version of corned beef hash (pieces of tender red meat and potatoes mixed, au jus). The meat was too chewy for this breakfast dish; felt like I was attempting to eat prime rib.

Other Notable Dishes: Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Shrimp & Grits, Bacon Peanut Brittles

The Redhead 349 East 13th Street b/t 1st & 2nd Avenues 212-533-6212
www.theredheadnyc.com