A Fork in the Road: Caracol (Houston, TX)

“Have you been to Caracol yet?” has become a pretty common question asked around Houston these days.  Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Café fame, has opened his new seafood-inspired restaurant in the Stewart Title building on Post Oak.  As I walk in, the interior stuns me.  Sure, it’s a very large space, but breathtakingly gorgeous. 

Recognizably, Ortega has outfitted his staff in matching Mexican shirts and black pants and there is plenty staff around, so service is not lacking.  We arrive on the early side (by 7pm, the noise level is pretty loud) and I start with a Paloma.  Tequila and just the right amount of Tajin infused soda for spice. 

An intense menu offers traditional appetizers as well as entrees, but also includes an impressive count of ceviches, soups and other Spanish starters.  Most of our diners chose an appetizer and entrée, but ordering two tapas size dishes certainly satisfies the most hungry diner. 

My friend, Liz, had suggested we order the Gulf wood-roasted oysters.  She was right…these did not

disappoint!  These dozen bivalves are served sizzling hot with chipotle butter and I could have easily had another few.  

The Chilpachole de Jaiba soup preparation was constructed beautifully around a blue soft shelled crab with mini masa dumplings floating about.  The flavors could have been a bit more complex, but enjoyable nonetheless. 

Again, the butterflied snapper steamed in a basket with adobo sauce was average when it came to seasoning.  In my experience, adobo sauce is rich and spicy which was not the case here, but the fish was expertly cooked.  

A chickpea stuffed masa pancake with the tangy avocado salad was delicious and filling.

Crispy duck, duck molote and chard with red pumpkin seed sauce was not the most visually appealing dish, but of all the entrees, had the most complexity.  

The chocolate dome was cracked open with a mallet where you find a frothy coconut filling inside.  It was a nice little surprise.

To be forgotten was their version of bananas foster with flavorless bananas and a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

While I leave Ortez’s restaurants completely full, I’m never fully satisfied.  The sides always make up for any lull with the food.  I am partial to the refried black beans; they would be part of my last meal on Earth.  The charred brussel sprouts are on skewers with a sweet sauce underneath.  There is always room for improvement in the seasoning regard, but at least it’s always consistent when it comes to cooking proteins and that’s why I always return.

The Brooklyn Star

Rare is a word to describe my travels to other boroughs and what a shame it is.  I mean, Brooklyn is the new Manhattan of dining and beyond, right?   The moment I set foot in The Brooklyn Star, it's a love of the wooden tables, silver globe lighting, Mason Jar glasses.  Upscale country. 

And upscale drinks.  The Gordons Breakfast of gin, cucumber, hot sauce and lime is my quintessential summer cocktail...light, refreshing, and the hot sauce packing the slightest punch. 

Oh, the Bloody Bull.  Vodka, housemade beef broth (admittedly this is not difficult to make) and pickled beans.  Reading 'beef broth' makes it seem heavy, but it isn't and it does what it is intended to do.  Hair of the dog!

I was torn between the breakfast torta, masa cakes or the fried chicken and waffles which are the obvious choice.  Fortunately, I went against the grain and ordered the masa cakes with housemade chorizo, black beans and poached eggs.  Always one to shy away from poached eggs, I might again after this dish.  All elements jived so wonderfully with the masa starch, almost-refried-textured black beans, tender choizo and pico.  It was so good.

Perfectly sweet without syrup blueberry Johnny Cakes, eggs, thick has brown disc ala Potato Darphin and house bacon.  My only compliant was the bacon.  I love a piece of bacon fat, but not whole pieces of lardon as a breakfast side.

I can't wait to go back and definitely worth traveling short distances for!

A Fork in the Road: State Farmers Market Restaurant, Part II (Raleigh, NC)

The restaurant was filled wall-to-wall with folks last Saturday morning and considering the amount of people in line, you'd think it would be a long wait.  We luckily sat in eight minutes.  Of course, the basket of biscuits and hush puppies arrived, but I tried to not stuff myself given that I'd be eating a carb-loaded breakfast.

Scrambled eggs, grits, NC country ham and toast - the grits were creamy, but needed some salt to balance taste to texture.  I enjoyed the ham, but only a few bites.  Country ham is generally salty, but this was too much (for me). 

Forgot pancake picture

My dad ordered the Hungry Man breakfast - eggs, bacon, ham, gravy, grits, pancakes, toast with roasted apples.  Too. Much. Food., though I really enjoyed the small pancakes served with molasses. 

Grandma's fried chicken, mashed potatoes and green bean standby and it my opinion, 'where it's at'.  The lunch just blows the breakfast away.  I just like that most vegetables and fruit come from the Farmers Market and the fried chicken is damn near perfect! 

Nyonya....

Came as a suggestion from a Malaysian co-worker, Winnie.  I asked her if she has an idea where I could get authentic Malaysian in either New Jersey or New York.  As she mentioned Nyonya, in NYC's Chinatown, my jaw dropped.  I couldn't believe she said there was an authentic restaurant in Chinatown. 

The olfactory mess that is Chinatown, also provides me much happiness.  Anyone who knows me, knows I have a love affair with Chinatown, especially during summer months.  I just love watching the men and women slinging slimey fish, eel or any other disgusting ocean creature they can get their hands on, while strolling and sipping on bubble tea from Quickly.  Depending on which vendor, the fruit stands can have fruit just as fresh as something you could pick up at Citarella. 

I was told to go a group and that is exactly what I did.  Winnie had given a list of five items and I knew I couldn't get away with ordering all of them, but three out of five ain't bad!

The chicken satay, while not always my favorite, is a crowd pleaser.  It was good with a fatty texture rather than lean (this satay was dark meat!).

Roti Telur - a traditional, thin Indian pancake filled with egg and onion. This crepe-like dish was served with a light chicken curry dipping sauce.

Beef Rendang simmered with cinnamon, cloves & lemongrass in coconut milk (note the spicy oil) was the  overall winner!  I ate this complex meat stew with coconut rice.  It gave the perfect hint of sweetness to offset the spiciness of the dish.

Garlic chicken suggested by the waiter was half a chicken fried with super crispy skin and a soy dipping sauce.  Both the white & dark meat were tender and succulent (and mostly enjoyed by me).

Less successful was the Chow Kueh Teow, a stir-fried flat rice noodles with shrimp, chive, squid, bean sprouts, eggs, soy sauce and chili paste.  While the dish had a variety of seafood, it was bland with the noodles dry and tasteless.

All this for $55.  Get there!

199 Grand between Mott & Mulberry

The Redhead

The Redhead may simply have the most perfect, gourmand Southern brunch in New York. In a city exploding with Southern fare, most notably fried chicken and grits, the competition is heavy.

Strolling into The Redhead is like strolling into a New Orleans speakeasy with its dark, wood panels and dimly lit space, but it's certainly no secret. They have been in the spotlight, due in part to their crawfish boils in the garden, as well as drawing in folks for brunch. Luckily, I made to brunch before they decidedly switched to dinner and late night menus only.

The monkey bread is glazed with a sweet frosting, but you haven't had monkey bread until you've had it at Neiman Marcus (that's right, the department store)! Neiman Marcus made monkey bread famous, serving it warm with homemade strawberry butter. It's called monkey bread because the technique of eating is somewhat reminiscent of a monkey pulling bread apart. A good way to start brunch is with dessert, but this might have been a little sweet for my 'buds.

Moving along to a dish which was a beautiful cacophony of ground meat, yukon gold and purple potatoes topped with a sunny-side up egg and cauliflower salata. It was possibly one of the most visually stunning comfort food dishes I've ever seen, then had the pleasure of consuming.

Ordinarily, I do not order sweet breakfast items, but the lemon ricotta pancakes were delightful and with just the slightest hint of lemon. The fresh fruit compote was enough to substitute for syrup.

The Redhead's version of corned beef hash (pieces of tender red meat and potatoes mixed, au jus). The meat was too chewy for this breakfast dish; felt like I was attempting to eat prime rib.

Other Notable Dishes: Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Shrimp & Grits, Bacon Peanut Brittles

The Redhead 349 East 13th Street b/t 1st & 2nd Avenues 212-533-6212
www.theredheadnyc.com

Shopsin's

There is a diner menu, then there is the Ultimate diner menu. In a cushioned chair at the end of Essex Street Market, sits foul-mouthed Kenny Shopsin. He watches every element of Stall No. 16 like a hawk. Only this man would be ballsy enough to formerly come from a diner space to a 50 sq. ft. kitchen and produce an extensive 1000-item menu. Shopsin and his daughter keep breakfast items in the simplest form, but reinvent the wheel with mac 'n' cheese, s'more pancakes and slutty cakes (glazed pumpkin, peanut butter & pistachio). I mean, how could these dishes not a gather a cult following?

The Moe I ups the ante on the McGriddle. Two doughy pancakes with the thickest slices of maple bacon stuffed in the middle, topped by two sunny-side up eggs. The bacon has been soaked in syrup, so much that none needs to be poured on. Now you can't pick this bad boy up, but who wouldn't want the real version?

The pulled pork sandwich, aka ATW, was slopped with BBQ sauce, along with bacon, caramelized onions, cheddar cheese, jalapenos that overwhelmed the meat of the sandwich. It couple have been simple, pulled pork on ciabatta.

One disappointment were the jalapeno grits - I would like to think a place like this could get grits right, but they were undercooked and undersalted.

Drawbacks: Unless you arrive at 9am, expect a lengthy wait...at least 30 minutes to an hour and do NOT go with more than 2 people. Read the menu before being seated or while waiting. They do not care for undecided folks.

Shopsins 120 Essex Street @ Rivington http://www.shopsins.com/
CASH ONLY

David's Brisket

Getting off the E train in Crown Heights can be quite a culture shock, but it is also home to David's Brisket. This absolutely 'no frills' joint has four two-tops and could use a major cleaning, but the food compensates dining space and cleanliness.

Though breakfast is not the specialty here, it is worth the extra calories just to try. If you are seeking pancakes comparable to that of Pink Tea Cup (sigh), try these. The doughy pieces of fluff have enough sweetness in the mixture that you won't even need to use syrup. A family of four could feast on one plate of eggs, pancakes and turkey bacon and breakfast sandwich. It was easily one of the best breakfast rolls I've ever had! $2.95 buys you a three inch thick egg, cheese and turkey ham on a roll.

The guys brought us a complimentary plate of the brisket, corned beef and pastrami thinking the breakfast was our meal, yet they had no idea what we had in mind. We then proceeded to order brisket, corned beef, pastrami and corned beef/pastrami combo sandwiches on rye. Unfortunately, the namesake brisket, was super dry even when topped with gravy.

But, the corned beef/pastrami combo was the clear winner! The partly-dried pastrami and small amount of gelatin in the corned beef was a sinister combination! Wash it down Dr. Browns Cel-Ray and Root Beer and you got yourself a meal.

Take a pass on the side dishes of coleslaw and particularly, the potato salad. Both were chock-full of mayo AND relish. Last I checked, relish was not an ingredient included in potato salad.

All this food for $56 with enough to take home (I actually used the CB & pastrami for omelettes). Now isn't that worth the $2.25 subway ride?

David's Brisket House 533 Nostrand Avenue
http://davidsbriskethouse.com/

There's a bizarre, yet interesting art project to check out as you walk to the subway: http://brooklyntheborough.com/?p=3898