Despana

A nice breezy afternoon Soho stroll should include a bocadillo while you sit on a bench outside Despana.  The no-fuss sandwich from the Spanish gourmet market on Broome Street had slices of butifarra sausage, goat cheese and a tomato-garlic spread all warm pressed between soft ciabatta (Catalan).  A couple weeks prior, I indulged in The Spaniard at Murray's Cheese which was buttered Pullman toast with melted manchego, Serrano, marinated peppers and membrillo spread.  That, my friends, was gluttonous.  As in, not even hungry for dinner six hours later.  I thought I'd be going down the same path with the Catalan, but this was the perfect lunch sandwich. 

Shopsin's

There is a diner menu, then there is the Ultimate diner menu. In a cushioned chair at the end of Essex Street Market, sits foul-mouthed Kenny Shopsin. He watches every element of Stall No. 16 like a hawk. Only this man would be ballsy enough to formerly come from a diner space to a 50 sq. ft. kitchen and produce an extensive 1000-item menu. Shopsin and his daughter keep breakfast items in the simplest form, but reinvent the wheel with mac 'n' cheese, s'more pancakes and slutty cakes (glazed pumpkin, peanut butter & pistachio). I mean, how could these dishes not a gather a cult following?

The Moe I ups the ante on the McGriddle. Two doughy pancakes with the thickest slices of maple bacon stuffed in the middle, topped by two sunny-side up eggs. The bacon has been soaked in syrup, so much that none needs to be poured on. Now you can't pick this bad boy up, but who wouldn't want the real version?

The pulled pork sandwich, aka ATW, was slopped with BBQ sauce, along with bacon, caramelized onions, cheddar cheese, jalapenos that overwhelmed the meat of the sandwich. It couple have been simple, pulled pork on ciabatta.

One disappointment were the jalapeno grits - I would like to think a place like this could get grits right, but they were undercooked and undersalted.

Drawbacks: Unless you arrive at 9am, expect a lengthy wait...at least 30 minutes to an hour and do NOT go with more than 2 people. Read the menu before being seated or while waiting. They do not care for undecided folks.

Shopsins 120 Essex Street @ Rivington http://www.shopsins.com/
CASH ONLY

SHUTTERED The New French

Nestled between two dark storefronts on Hudson lies a small bistro, The New French. The uninviting dark-wood paneled interior is balanced by glow of the mural painted by Maira Kalman, whom also happens to be the penman of the menus. We were seated almost immediately in green and white wicker bistro chairs overlooking the chalkboard of specials with our coffee press and sandtimer.

What seems to be a typical bistro with traditional Parisian breakfast, is anything but. The eggs with potatoes and greens, omelettes and crepes are all enjoyable enough, but the real stars here are the sandwiches. The intense flavors of the chili/beer-braised pulled pork on brioche with mustard riata and brisket on ciabatta with roasted peppers should win some sort of award.
The complex, ethnic seasoning (particularly that of the pork) leaves you begging for the next bite. The beautifully cooked french fries are an added bonus to a perfect meal. These are pommes frites a bistro in France would gladly call their own ~ crispy, with little flakes of salt.


At one point, I glance over and see the steaming bowl of TNF pho noodles with broccoli, carrots, scallions, shallots, and cilantro which looks like another appetizing dish. The former chef of Tabla produces a much more ethnic-inspired menu than French; but heck, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

The New French 522 Hudson Street @ 10th Street (212) 807-7357