A Fork in the Road: Caracol (Houston, TX)

“Have you been to Caracol yet?” has become a pretty common question asked around Houston these days.  Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Café fame, has opened his new seafood-inspired restaurant in the Stewart Title building on Post Oak.  As I walk in, the interior stuns me.  Sure, it’s a very large space, but breathtakingly gorgeous. 

Recognizably, Ortega has outfitted his staff in matching Mexican shirts and black pants and there is plenty staff around, so service is not lacking.  We arrive on the early side (by 7pm, the noise level is pretty loud) and I start with a Paloma.  Tequila and just the right amount of Tajin infused soda for spice. 

An intense menu offers traditional appetizers as well as entrees, but also includes an impressive count of ceviches, soups and other Spanish starters.  Most of our diners chose an appetizer and entrée, but ordering two tapas size dishes certainly satisfies the most hungry diner. 

My friend, Liz, had suggested we order the Gulf wood-roasted oysters.  She was right…these did not

disappoint!  These dozen bivalves are served sizzling hot with chipotle butter and I could have easily had another few.  

The Chilpachole de Jaiba soup preparation was constructed beautifully around a blue soft shelled crab with mini masa dumplings floating about.  The flavors could have been a bit more complex, but enjoyable nonetheless. 

Again, the butterflied snapper steamed in a basket with adobo sauce was average when it came to seasoning.  In my experience, adobo sauce is rich and spicy which was not the case here, but the fish was expertly cooked.  

A chickpea stuffed masa pancake with the tangy avocado salad was delicious and filling.

Crispy duck, duck molote and chard with red pumpkin seed sauce was not the most visually appealing dish, but of all the entrees, had the most complexity.  

The chocolate dome was cracked open with a mallet where you find a frothy coconut filling inside.  It was a nice little surprise.

To be forgotten was their version of bananas foster with flavorless bananas and a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

While I leave Ortez’s restaurants completely full, I’m never fully satisfied.  The sides always make up for any lull with the food.  I am partial to the refried black beans; they would be part of my last meal on Earth.  The charred brussel sprouts are on skewers with a sweet sauce underneath.  There is always room for improvement in the seasoning regard, but at least it’s always consistent when it comes to cooking proteins and that’s why I always return.

A Fork in the Road: State Farmers Market Restaurant (Raleigh, NC)

Right past downtown Raleigh is the Raleigh's Farmers Market and compared to ones in New York,  Hudson Valley, Colorado this one was ginormous!  Not only was there a building full of jams, jellies, jerky, there was an outdoor building for vegetables/produce/plants, as well as a separate drive-thru outdoor building for fruit.  Unfortunately, it wasn't prime fruit season, so you could just literally drive through the building. 

Overalls as the uniform...country touch!

In addition to the actual market, there is an entire store dedicated to gardeners and all of their needs.  The grounds house three restaurants, The Market Grill, The Seafood Restaurant and State Farmers Market Restaurant.  Late on a Saturday morning, my grandma and I pulled up to State Farmers market Restaurant.  As I looked around at the food and diners, I thought, 'this place seems pretty legit'.  It wasn't til much later on my walk through the produce building, that I understood how fresh these vegetables were.

Isn't she the cutest?  

When asked if she was going to get breakfast or lunch, my grandma said, 'I'm not getting anything I can make at home.'  Ha!  That meant no breakfast.  So, against my better judgment, I got lunch as well.  (I heard from my cousin that I really missed out, but not to fear, I will be back in a couple weeks) 

I ordered a half a barbecue chicken with collard greens and pickled beets.  I was skeptical ordering this chicken knowing it had a thick sauce (more like Tennessee barbecue), but lawdy, it was good.  Finger-licking good to be exact!  It had some peppery kick that paired nicely with the collards that I doused in vinegar sauce. 

Grandma ordered none other than a real Southern meal.  Fried chicken, mashed potatoes with gravy and green beans.  The fry is not the only secret to fried chicken, but the amount of salt and this was perfect.  It must have been fantastic because a 97 year old woman ate most everything! 

Complimentary banana pudding.  The best homemade banana pudding.  None of the boxed pudding involved in making this; just straight up milk, egg, flour and sugar.  Not too much sugar....just the perfect amount of sweetness.

We has started with one of my grandmas favorites: Fried Green Tomatoes
Perhaps I like cornmeal or tempura fried better.  These were oily and you could really taste the batter which I am not a fan of.

Don't 'cha just love the South?

http://www.ncagr.gov/markets/facilities/markets/raleigh/

SHUTTERED: Bee Desserts

Claudia Steves' renamed La Palette has just reopened on Greenwich Avenue with the same menu as its predecessor.

The tilapia sandwich ($12) looked appealing with its sesame seed bun, deep-fried bananas and asiago cheese, but lacked flair. The green sauce, which would have brought the dish together, simply wasn't strong enough. The asiago was the only element keeping it together, and the tilapia could have used a dash of salt.

Forget the pulled pork altogether...not even worth the mention, dry and bland.

DO pick up the foil-covered speciality honeycakes. The spongy honeycake is enclosed in a dark cocoa shell, come with marshmallow, liqueur and almond and made with zero sugar. The quaint back garden (along with sweet strings of lights) is lovely for an evening of sipping wine and eating pleasurable desserts, but hardly much else.


Bee Desserts 94 Greenwich Avenue @ Jane Street www.beedesserts.com