A Fork in the Road: Caracol (Houston, TX)

“Have you been to Caracol yet?” has become a pretty common question asked around Houston these days.  Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Café fame, has opened his new seafood-inspired restaurant in the Stewart Title building on Post Oak.  As I walk in, the interior stuns me.  Sure, it’s a very large space, but breathtakingly gorgeous. 

Recognizably, Ortega has outfitted his staff in matching Mexican shirts and black pants and there is plenty staff around, so service is not lacking.  We arrive on the early side (by 7pm, the noise level is pretty loud) and I start with a Paloma.  Tequila and just the right amount of Tajin infused soda for spice. 

An intense menu offers traditional appetizers as well as entrees, but also includes an impressive count of ceviches, soups and other Spanish starters.  Most of our diners chose an appetizer and entrée, but ordering two tapas size dishes certainly satisfies the most hungry diner. 

My friend, Liz, had suggested we order the Gulf wood-roasted oysters.  She was right…these did not

disappoint!  These dozen bivalves are served sizzling hot with chipotle butter and I could have easily had another few.  

The Chilpachole de Jaiba soup preparation was constructed beautifully around a blue soft shelled crab with mini masa dumplings floating about.  The flavors could have been a bit more complex, but enjoyable nonetheless. 

Again, the butterflied snapper steamed in a basket with adobo sauce was average when it came to seasoning.  In my experience, adobo sauce is rich and spicy which was not the case here, but the fish was expertly cooked.  

A chickpea stuffed masa pancake with the tangy avocado salad was delicious and filling.

Crispy duck, duck molote and chard with red pumpkin seed sauce was not the most visually appealing dish, but of all the entrees, had the most complexity.  

The chocolate dome was cracked open with a mallet where you find a frothy coconut filling inside.  It was a nice little surprise.

To be forgotten was their version of bananas foster with flavorless bananas and a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

While I leave Ortez’s restaurants completely full, I’m never fully satisfied.  The sides always make up for any lull with the food.  I am partial to the refried black beans; they would be part of my last meal on Earth.  The charred brussel sprouts are on skewers with a sweet sauce underneath.  There is always room for improvement in the seasoning regard, but at least it’s always consistent when it comes to cooking proteins and that’s why I always return.

A Fork in the Road: Underbelly (Houston, TX)

You have to write fairly quickly when it comes to Underbelly given the frequent seasonal menu changes at Underbelly, but it is still blog-worthy.  Chris Shepherd is certainly considered one of the best chefs in Houston, if not the country; although I am not too sure how the menu tells 'The Story of Houston Food'.  He does use local ingredients, but the Creole-Houston story is confusing.  The menu is mostly family-style which didn't fare well with my folks and their friends, but it was somewhat enjoyable. 

Beet and goat cheese mixed greens

These market vegetables in caramelized fish sauce almost didn't have a photo at all!  I love when restaurants use fish sauce and these wax beans handle it well.  (Oh, please order the sourdough bread with chive butter that you see in the background.)

Seared duck breast - I've had better.  This was too chewy and under seasoned.

My favorite dish was the whole fish with roasted root vegetables.  They ask if you like it filleted or whole and I opted for the whole fish to practice my culinary school techniques.  Chef Gabe at ICC would have been proud!  Heck, the waitress even told me I was doing a great job.

One negative aspect of dinner at Underbelly is the noise level.  Now, I am not outdating myself, but it was even too loud for my club-loving ears.  My friend, Liz, said it is much more enjoyable at lunch.

A Fork in the Road: Lisbon, Portugal

Cafe no Chiado:

Beautifully situated and decorated, next to the San Luis de Teatro, with a design of mid-century modern wood and Gothic stones. The walls are library-like with real books as well as wall lithographs with books stacked and floating all around. As expected, there is an after theatre crowd as well as the famous Tram 28 passing the front of the restaurant, yet somehow it isn't a tourist trap.

I try to keep the pao (bread) consumption to a minimum, but it proves to be difficult. This bread has a trio of butter, olive spread and what else? A bacalau spread. Instead of ordering a cod dish, I decide upon arroz con pato (duck with rice Portuguese style). I'm delighted to see it is served with a green salad, barely dressed. The duck is tender, cooked in bacon fat, but the Portuguese style rice was hard on top, soft underneath. The composition was nice, although I was not blown away. I was blown away by the chocolate mousse. It is fluffy and rich with dark chocolate chips that I eat gladly with eat bite. It was quite possibly the best chocolate mousse, or dessert for that matter, that I've ever had!

http://www.cafenochiado.com/

Bonjardim:

Typically, restaurants located in the largely tourist areas are mediocre, and then there’s Bonjardim.  Their specialty is spit-fired roasted chicken and it is succulent.  There’s only one other chicken I like better (ahem, Mr. Waxman).  It is served as a half or whole and is best with fritas (fries) and the best side salad I had in Portugal.

Travessa de Santo Antão 11 Lisbon +213 427 424

Kaffee Haus:

I just had to have a salad one evening, so I hit an Austrian café in the Chiado.  Just mixed greens, pine nuts and a terrine of cheese.  Light, high cheese quality and a killer vinaigrette.  No English menus.

Rua Anchieta 3 Lisbon

Café de Sao Bento:

Quiet, like a private club, with dark red and mahogany walls and red velvet chairs, where Parliament members come to dine.  The Portuguese steak arrives piping hot and as the waiter suggested medium-well. Much to my surprise, it isn’t chewy, but tender and red through the middle.  He says, ‘It’s not Argentinean meat, but it’s good’.  I beg to differ!  This beef cooked in olive oil, garlic; laurel (of the bay leaf family) has very interesting flavor.

The cheesecake….made in house.  I have my doubts. I mean, I’m a New Yorker!  Home of Italian Americans and traveler of Italy.  It arrives.  It IS made in house unlike American ricotta cheesecake where it is difficult to tell the ricotta from the sugar.  This is tasty, fluffy ricotta.  Impressive.

Rua de São Bento 212  1200 Lisbon

(Many thanks to Antonio of Cafe de Sao Bento for providing photos for this piece)

A Fork in the Road: Cafe no Chiado (Lisbon, Portugal)

Cafe no Chiado is beautifully situated and decorated, next to the San Luis de Teatro, with a design of mid-century modern wood and Gothic stones.  The walls are library-like with real books as well as wall lithographs with books stacked and floating all around.  As expected, there is an after theatre crowd as well as the famous Tram 28 passing the front of the restaurant, yet somehow it isn't a tourist trap.

I try to keep the pao (bread) consumption to a minimum, but it proves to be difficult.  This bread has a trio of butter, olive spread and what else?  A bacalau spread.  Instead of ordering a cod dish, I decide upon arroz con pato (duck with rice Portuguese style).  I'm delighted to see it is served with a green salad, barely dressed.  The duck is tender, cooked in bacon fat, but the Portuguese style rice was hard on top, soft underneath.  The composition was nice, although I was not blown away.  I was blown away by the chocolate mousse.  It is fluffy and rich with dark chocolate chips that I eat gladly with eat bite.  It was quite possibly the best chocolate mousse, or dessert for that matter, that I've ever had!

http://www.cafenochiado.com/