A Fork in the Road: Caracol (Houston, TX)

“Have you been to Caracol yet?” has become a pretty common question asked around Houston these days.  Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Café fame, has opened his new seafood-inspired restaurant in the Stewart Title building on Post Oak.  As I walk in, the interior stuns me.  Sure, it’s a very large space, but breathtakingly gorgeous. 

Recognizably, Ortega has outfitted his staff in matching Mexican shirts and black pants and there is plenty staff around, so service is not lacking.  We arrive on the early side (by 7pm, the noise level is pretty loud) and I start with a Paloma.  Tequila and just the right amount of Tajin infused soda for spice. 

An intense menu offers traditional appetizers as well as entrees, but also includes an impressive count of ceviches, soups and other Spanish starters.  Most of our diners chose an appetizer and entrée, but ordering two tapas size dishes certainly satisfies the most hungry diner. 

My friend, Liz, had suggested we order the Gulf wood-roasted oysters.  She was right…these did not

disappoint!  These dozen bivalves are served sizzling hot with chipotle butter and I could have easily had another few.  

The Chilpachole de Jaiba soup preparation was constructed beautifully around a blue soft shelled crab with mini masa dumplings floating about.  The flavors could have been a bit more complex, but enjoyable nonetheless. 

Again, the butterflied snapper steamed in a basket with adobo sauce was average when it came to seasoning.  In my experience, adobo sauce is rich and spicy which was not the case here, but the fish was expertly cooked.  

A chickpea stuffed masa pancake with the tangy avocado salad was delicious and filling.

Crispy duck, duck molote and chard with red pumpkin seed sauce was not the most visually appealing dish, but of all the entrees, had the most complexity.  

The chocolate dome was cracked open with a mallet where you find a frothy coconut filling inside.  It was a nice little surprise.

To be forgotten was their version of bananas foster with flavorless bananas and a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

While I leave Ortez’s restaurants completely full, I’m never fully satisfied.  The sides always make up for any lull with the food.  I am partial to the refried black beans; they would be part of my last meal on Earth.  The charred brussel sprouts are on skewers with a sweet sauce underneath.  There is always room for improvement in the seasoning regard, but at least it’s always consistent when it comes to cooking proteins and that’s why I always return.

A Fork in the Road: Bellissimo (Houston, TX)

Family-owned Bellissimo is in Houston's lovely Heights and also happens to be one of the more neighborhood-y joints in the area.  This growing neighborhood seems to be attracting more restaurateur types, so this is a distraction from the loud, indulgent menu restaurants.  It is a dark, quiet atmosphere that is BYOB (see my smile) with heavy Italian fare.  One thing I love about this menu is make-your-own pizza and pasta which can translate into putting together an entree pretty much any way you want.

Garlic shrimp appetizer - large shrimp in a puddle of butter, garlic and lemon. 

Red Snapper with a white wine, caper sauce served with angel hair pasta and sauteed spinach.  The diced tomatoes just don't do anything for this dish.  Unless tomatoes are vine-ripe, just forget them all together! 

It looks like alot 'cause it is alot!

I might have gone a tad overboard ordering the Red Snapper served with sautéed shrimp, crab meat, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil served in a white wine lemon butter sauce.  Not only did I get a hefty seafood portion, I just had to try the namesake pasta jalapeno fettuccine served with grilled chicken, black beans, fresh cilantro, diced jalapenos and tomatoes served in a Parmesan white wine butter sauce.  The pasta was a bit of a disappointment.  I think perhaps I was looking for a cream jalapeno sauce?  I don't know what I was thinking, but the 'jalapeno' pasta had no kick and dry to boot.  My suggestion is go with angel hair and a green.

Dessert special - Bavarian berry cream cake...lighter than you would think and delicious! 

BYOB, moist fish and price make Bellissimo a favorite; though I wish they would change the plate presentation.  It looks like something I'd get in a casino restaurant. 

The Brooklyn Star

Rare is a word to describe my travels to other boroughs and what a shame it is.  I mean, Brooklyn is the new Manhattan of dining and beyond, right?   The moment I set foot in The Brooklyn Star, it's a love of the wooden tables, silver globe lighting, Mason Jar glasses.  Upscale country. 

And upscale drinks.  The Gordons Breakfast of gin, cucumber, hot sauce and lime is my quintessential summer cocktail...light, refreshing, and the hot sauce packing the slightest punch. 

Oh, the Bloody Bull.  Vodka, housemade beef broth (admittedly this is not difficult to make) and pickled beans.  Reading 'beef broth' makes it seem heavy, but it isn't and it does what it is intended to do.  Hair of the dog!

I was torn between the breakfast torta, masa cakes or the fried chicken and waffles which are the obvious choice.  Fortunately, I went against the grain and ordered the masa cakes with housemade chorizo, black beans and poached eggs.  Always one to shy away from poached eggs, I might again after this dish.  All elements jived so wonderfully with the masa starch, almost-refried-textured black beans, tender choizo and pico.  It was so good.

Perfectly sweet without syrup blueberry Johnny Cakes, eggs, thick has brown disc ala Potato Darphin and house bacon.  My only compliant was the bacon.  I love a piece of bacon fat, but not whole pieces of lardon as a breakfast side.

I can't wait to go back and definitely worth traveling short distances for!

Tortaria

Had this:

Pulled pork with spicy black beans, cheese, avocado, cilantro, roasted chipotle peppers and pickled red onion.

Read this, apply to pork : http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2012/08/tortaria-torta-burger-review-union-square-nyc.html?ref=excerpt_readmore

Couldn't have said it better myself.  Really Tortaria?!?!?

A Fork in the Road: My Last Meal at Americas (Post Oak) Houston, TX

It was only proper I have one last meal at Americas after celebrating many birthdays and accomplishments here since high school.  Michael Cordua has been credited with leading the Latin America culinary movement in America and the only Texas chef to be inducted to the "Food & Wine Hall of Fame".  Luckily, he made Houston his home.  Walking in, it feels like a Latin American goth scene; dark walls, furniture and sculpture.  It feels like a Vegas casino, with its decor and lavish ceiling art and lighting fixtures, except interesting.

Parents ordered mixed greens salad....bleh...though the cilantro dressing was good...a little tart, a little creamy, green goddess with cilantro.  I opted for Ahi Tuna ceviche and was skeptical given the amount of ingredients (roasted peanut, jícama, cilantro, crispy onion, citrus ponzu); it easily could have been without the peanut and onion, but I enjoyed it very much.
 

I had to have my staple at the Churassco's/Americas restaurants, which is Pollo Encamisado. 
This palliard of plantain crusted chicken sitting on top of black bean sauce with seared panela cheese and crema fresca is delectable.  Heavy, but not in a 'I feel so stuffed' type of way.  Of course, it's better if you don't have an appetizer, but what's the fun in that?  This dish has never disappointed me at Americas or any Churassco's.

Mom - If ever there were a salmon to be ordered, this is it.  Salmon Caliente.  This light, non-fishy grilled atlantic salmon, shrimp ceviche beurre blanc, pico de gallo didn't miss a mark.

Dad - Chileno.  Pan roasted sea bass over polenta spoon bread, sautéed spinach, and habanero beurre blanc.  The beurre blanc has the habanero taste, but not the heat, which is nice for for fish. 

All and all, was a great farewell to the Post Oak location (now in its final couple weeks of operation).  Cordua has since opened a bustling River Oaks location. 

p.s.  the plaintain chips with dipping sauces are my fav starter!

A Fork in the Road: Little BIGS (Houston, TX)

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Sitting on the corner of Montrose and Westheimer in Houston, is Bryan Caswell and Bill Floyd's (of Reef) Little Bigs. The idea is an even better twist on the burger joint....a slider joint. They have three types of sliders - beef with caramelized onions, chicken and black bean. You can order them in a trio or solo. I tried one of each with a large basket of fries.

The fries are true-handcut perfection covered with flakes of salt. There aren't too many places that can perfect the simplicity of frying a handcut fry.
The beef with caramelized onion was only mildly juicy after being a tad overcooked and the "special sauce" (nothing more than a mixture of mayo and ketchup) was the saving grace of the bland chicken. The star of this trio was the black bean slider. It was the first one I tried and upon taking a bite, I actually thought this was the beef! The black beans were well-seasoned, then mashed into a 'meaty' blend. The buns were inconsistent on all the sliders, but nothing significant to spoil it. Wash it all down with an Arnold Palmer...or Bigs offers a variety of vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, butterscotch, and White Russian milkshakes. I'm sure one would be enjoyable on the patio in the summer, though I didn't try one this time.
Little Bigs has awhile to go before it can even be in a race with all the incredible burger joints around Houston; but if you are looking for a snack of fries & a shake, hit this place up.

2703 Montrose Blvd. @ Westheimer (713) 521-2447