SHUTTERED Calliope

Calliope is one the few East Village restaurants I really love.  Sure, the neighborhood is fun and cheap, but higher-end restaurant quality (aside from the likes of Alder, Prune, Porsena and a couple others) is practically non-existent.  It could be the most perfect, casual romantic French bistro.

Ever since The Times published an article on the happy hour oyster craze in NYC, it is pretty difficult to get me to pay regular prices for oysters (and why would you?!?!); but Calliope is an exception...though they now have a 5-7p oyster happy hour!  Their East Coast oysters with mignonette are delicious and it wasn't even so much about the oysters, but the sauce.  Oddly, mignonette can taste different everywhere and they have a superb one with cracked pepper.

Due to my total obsession with sea urchin, I had to order the sea urchin toasts and these were a disappointment.  It could be that the urchin was from Maine and personally, I only care for the California kind, but the texture was a little too slimy and tasted too fishy.  Serves me right for ordering that anywhere but a sushi joint.

One of the best dishes of the night was the spring onion, leek and goat cheese tart.  You could taste the layers in the dough with pillowy goat cheese topped with greens.  Worth the $14 (gasp).

Looking to get your green on?  Look no further than this salad.

My mom always orders 'exotic' menu items thinking they will always be the most tasteful.  The quail with chantrelle mushrooms, cipollinis and vinegar fell a little short of better than average.  It was tasty, but spending time getting meat off small game birds doesn't exactly pay off in the end.  Plus, it just looked like a mish-mosh of stuff.

Chicken was never a dish I would want to order until I had chicken from Barbuto.   Now, it is in the rotation at even the finest of restaurants.  This roasted chicken had the crispiest of skin and perfectly seasoned, juicy meat served with stuffed cabbage and carrots.

Standout dish of the evening was the milk-poached halibut, green chickpeas, favas and white asparagus.  Do NOT leave Calliope without ordering this!  The presentation, the texture, the spring peas!  All in glorious harmony together.

The best part of my night was seeing this:

Two people that have been together for 50 years and still in love.  My parents.

A Fork in the Road: Caracol (Houston, TX)

“Have you been to Caracol yet?” has become a pretty common question asked around Houston these days.  Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Café fame, has opened his new seafood-inspired restaurant in the Stewart Title building on Post Oak.  As I walk in, the interior stuns me.  Sure, it’s a very large space, but breathtakingly gorgeous. 

Recognizably, Ortega has outfitted his staff in matching Mexican shirts and black pants and there is plenty staff around, so service is not lacking.  We arrive on the early side (by 7pm, the noise level is pretty loud) and I start with a Paloma.  Tequila and just the right amount of Tajin infused soda for spice. 

An intense menu offers traditional appetizers as well as entrees, but also includes an impressive count of ceviches, soups and other Spanish starters.  Most of our diners chose an appetizer and entrée, but ordering two tapas size dishes certainly satisfies the most hungry diner. 

My friend, Liz, had suggested we order the Gulf wood-roasted oysters.  She was right…these did not

disappoint!  These dozen bivalves are served sizzling hot with chipotle butter and I could have easily had another few.  

The Chilpachole de Jaiba soup preparation was constructed beautifully around a blue soft shelled crab with mini masa dumplings floating about.  The flavors could have been a bit more complex, but enjoyable nonetheless. 

Again, the butterflied snapper steamed in a basket with adobo sauce was average when it came to seasoning.  In my experience, adobo sauce is rich and spicy which was not the case here, but the fish was expertly cooked.  

A chickpea stuffed masa pancake with the tangy avocado salad was delicious and filling.

Crispy duck, duck molote and chard with red pumpkin seed sauce was not the most visually appealing dish, but of all the entrees, had the most complexity.  

The chocolate dome was cracked open with a mallet where you find a frothy coconut filling inside.  It was a nice little surprise.

To be forgotten was their version of bananas foster with flavorless bananas and a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

While I leave Ortez’s restaurants completely full, I’m never fully satisfied.  The sides always make up for any lull with the food.  I am partial to the refried black beans; they would be part of my last meal on Earth.  The charred brussel sprouts are on skewers with a sweet sauce underneath.  There is always room for improvement in the seasoning regard, but at least it’s always consistent when it comes to cooking proteins and that’s why I always return.

Tertulia

The first time I dined at Tertulia, I thought these were better tapas than I had when I went to Spain two years ago!  Way better.  Of all the tapas ordered, not one dish was 'off'.  We arrived at 6:30 and no wait, but anytime after 7:30, you will definitely have upwards of an hour, or more.  During our trip, no one really understood the allure of pan con tomate, but somehow ate it everywhere we went.

The simple dish of bread rubbed with tomato, garlic and oil really boiled down to the bread at Tertulia.  I don't know what purveyor they use for the bread, but it is a crusty sensation. 

There is a variation of this oyster special every night

Oysters with fino sherry, celery mignonette, crispy shallots and jamón serrano - if you haven't tried this, it is not to be missed.  It is such a unique way of serving oysters on the halfshell.

Grilled octopus with a hearty kale pistou which I found to be forgettable.

Holy sh****t ham croquettes.  Un.believe.able.  We also ordered the bacalao (I'll get to that in a second) and when I took the first bite of a croquette, it was so smooth and whipped, I thought it was the bacalao.  All who read my blog know how much I love a salty and sweet pairing and this was perfect with the membrillo (quince paste).  Sidebar - for a small, imported and inexpensive Portuguese groceries go to Soho's M&O Market Deli at 124 Thompson...they also have one of the best sandwiches around.

Bacalao with baked egg and roasted peppers - When there is a chance to eat more of that fantastico bread, get it, period.  The bacalao is made with potatoes, oil, garlic and egg for richness...no cream.  Similar to the dish I had in Sintra at Tulhas.

My ears only heard one word...uni.  Anything with uni I will order, so I thought I would keep the richness theme up with Arroz Negro, a frequent special of squid ink rice topped with the delicacy and tiny pieces of squid. Yum. Yum. Yum.

Stick with extra small plates when thinking about desserts. I have yet to have a dessert at Tertulia worth writing about.  Additionally, the service and food have been inconsistent as of late; however, it is worth the money and you should at least go once.

A Fork in the Road: Lucile's (Boulder, CO)

Lucile's, a 32-year old family establishment, is the breakfast institution of Boulder and its surrounding areas.  It also comes with a lengthy line that is totally worth the wait and the portions :-)
We had a large group which works out well for the reviewer who wants to try a bit of everything.  It's amazing Creole can taste this good in this part of the country.  We began with beignets and unsurprisingly, these weren't that good.  Unlike Cafe du Monde, they are not soft and doughy.  These are way too hallow and crispy; but on to better dishes....



See the partial piece behind?  It is a quarter of my biscuit!

Me first!  Eggs Rockefeller - scrambled eggs, steamed spinach, fried oysters and Rockefeller sauce which is essentially cream, herbs and a Pernod or Herbsaint liquer.  As if this isn't enough food already, they serve it with a side of grits and a HuGe biscuit.  The biscuit could be a meal itself, or broken into quarters to serve four....not joking.  Of course this was heavy, but given I hardly ate the grits or biscuit, the portion was great for me.  The Rockefeller sauce was good, but could have used a tiny more Pernod.  It needed a little BAM! ala Emeril.

Creole Omelet with spicy sausage and delicious.  I am a big fan of tomatoes integrated with eggs, but not the tomato/seafood combo with eggs.  This worked much better for me with the sausage/ham.  For a couple extra bucks, order the cheddar chive grits.  It is worth it.  Trust!

The simple Eggs Eisenhower of poached eggs, grits, bacon, and biscuit.  You want heavy?  Order Carlin County (background) sausage gravy over a biscuit, red beans and grits.  The sausage gravy was good, but could have used a little more sausage dripping with pepper instead of a cream, roux and sausage mix.

Lightest of the bunch was Eggs Jennifer with spinach, tomato, avocado, and poached eggs. 

The idea here is go big!  Zero portion control.  It's what Creole is all about.

Gorgeous drive to Boulder

A Fork in the Road: Husk (Charleston, SC)

One of the most envied reservations in town and we were lucky enough to get one on a Monday night.  Located in downtown Charleston mansion, Husk is very inviting from the moment you walk in the door.  An enormous and extensive chalkboard with the day's ingredients, and their location,  hangs above the hostess stand.  Chef Sean Brock prides his restaurant with having fresh, Southern ingredients every single day.  Complete with soft lighting and a long, narrowed dining room, simple table settings with glass jars of what else? Husks.

We each began with appetizers and I must say it was, unfortunately, the only most gratifying part of the dining experience.  

A beautiful assembly of spring colors in the Greechie Boy lettuces, roasted beets and spring berries with Asher blue cheese and wild blackberry vinaigrette salad.

Capers Inlet blade oysters with cucumber buttermilk and spring onion mignonette.  Thin, almost razor-like, oysters in a light buttermilk-vinegar mignonette topped with a sprig of dill.

Husk's staple appetizer of Southern fried chicken skins with a hot honey and garlic sauce. 

Fried green tomatoes with TN cheddar pimento cheese and shaved country ham.  This plate could have been a meal itself.  A nice, creamy pimento cheese, but the tomatoes could have used a dash of salt in the cornmeal.

I am at a loss when nothing pops out at me from the menu.  How disappointing.  I went out on a limb (my limb) and ordered the cornmeal fried NC softshell crabs, spring courgettes and onions, FL sweet corn with Husk tomato gravy.  The elements of the dish were all versatile and tasted well separately, but I couldn't seem to integrate them. 

However, the union of Adam Musick's VA Heritage pork with smoky peas and butter beans, rapini, Charleston Gold rice and collard liquor (or the liquid left from boiling collard greens) complemented one another soundly.  Husk's menu has a heavy pork presence and pork is what you want to order.  The sugary top of the pork added yet another dimension to the smoky, bitter, creamy dish.

Please do yourself a favor and order a side skillet of Smoky Benton's bacon cornbread.  That you won't regret.

A Fork in the Road: Stringray Cafe (New Bern, NC)

My family headed to North Carolina a month ago for my cousin's wedding in New Bern, NC.  I am not really sure why I was never excited to visit New Bern because I really enjoy coastal towns in North Carolina.  Our hotel was in the marina and my brother an I needed a quick snack (i.e. meal) before the wedding began.  We took a ten minute stroll down the main street in the marina to Stingray Cafe. 

My brother

Let me preface this post by saying, if you do not like fried food, Stingray is not your place.  Although Stingray does offer some grilled food, I'd say your better bet for seafood of the non-fried kind would be next door at Tryon Palace.  We walk in and the place has a cutesy fisherman's boat nautical feel completed with buoys, nets, helms and let's not forget the indoor humidity. 

As I've mentioned before, North Carolina's bread basket is actually a hush puppy basket and these too, were served hot hot hot with a nice crisp crust.  Gotta love the Texas Pete hot sauce on the table!

My fried snapper, oysters and okra with a side of finely chopped cole slaw.  I love this traditional Southern mayo-based, sweet, vinegary cole slaw.  It's my absolute favorite!  The fish batter had a dash of pepper and the oysters were nice and big.

Rod's shrimp, oysters, okra and fries. 

All fried and all good with a side of sweet tea that was sweet enough for dessert.

New Bern is actually the second oldest city in North Carolina with tons of Colonial history that is evident in the town itself.  The architecture of the homes and original hitching posts all around.  New Bern is also the birthplace of Pepsi.

SHUTTERED 8st Kitchen

Never had I seen so many local Korean hipsters slamming Korean Bombers (soju or whiskey dropped in Korean OB Lager) in one evening. 8st Kitchen has a happy hour that doesn't end until way after 7pm; and they keep going and going throughout their meal.

We were quite lame on the drinking front, but held up on the food end.

Spicy squid 오징어볶음 - wok-fried squid tossed in spicy pepper sauce served with somen noodle

Pan-fried oyster 굴전 with diced vegetables coated with egg batter was less successful due to the oyster completely lost in heavy egg batter

Kimchi stew 김치찌개 with tofu, pork belly

Sizzling hot stone bibimbap 돌솥비빔밥 white rice & vegetables in hot stone bowl, egg yolk & choice of meat

Kimchi

Recommendations: stews, bibimbap and korean barbeque

8st Kitchen 22 West 8th Street b/t 5th & 6th Avenues 212-477-7755
http://www.8stkitchen.com

SHUTTERED Catalan (Fork in the Road: Houston, TX)

Roasted Berkshire Pork belly with Steen's pure cane syrup - the perfect fat-to-meat ratio and enough for an entire meal

Arborio-dusted calamari with jalapeno lime dressing - calamari was oily and the dipping sauce, too acidic

Baby arugula, roasted hazelnuts, can vinaigrette, spicy fried oysters - these plump oysters were lightly breaded & deep fried

Spice roasted Grouper, local sweet carrot, crabmeat

Seafood Stew: Local fish, clams, shrimp and calamari - extremely bland flavors

Blackened snapper over a 'crawfish boil' - the flavors worked well together, although the pepper overwhelmed the dish a touch

Lamb chops over white beans cooked down with lamb shoulder and Morcilla

Berkshire pork chop, sweet potato and Texas apple hash demi

Bacon & goat cheese grits

Redneck Mac & Cheese

Every main course's meat was tough, particularly the chops. While Catalan falls short in the entree category, it succeeds with small plates and sides; and honestly, most of the small plates have portions big enough to be considered entree-size.

Kudos to the team for their use of farmers that supply the menu!

Catalan 5555 Washington Avenue