Few things make me more genuinely happy than a retro restaurant modernized and Ashley Christensen has done just that with Poole's Downtown Diner. In what seems to be well thought strategy, the James Beard semifinalist's restaurants are all located smack dab in downtown Raleigh. I mentioned Poole's to my grandmother on the way from the airport and she said, 'I went there with your grandfather years ago (had to be
at least 30 years), and it took so long to bring the food.' He said, 'they better bring it out soon, or I'm getting up and walking right out.' I told her Poole's was a little different these days and she said, 'well, how would you know?' to which I answered, 'a thing called the internet'.
We park on McDowell Street and from the outside, it appears to have kept that retro diner look. Christensen has kept the interior structurally the same with the double fountain bars and stools, then added roughly 20 booths and tables. Clearly, the interior isn't nearly as drab as the original diner with its gorgeous stainless steel bar, hanging chalkboard menus and soft lighting.
 |
| Gin martini |
Our bubbly waitress offers us drinks and lets us know her favorite things on the menu. She tells me everything I've read about, so naturally, I don't order any of it. Instead, I start with roasted beets with marinated beluga lentils, goat lady diary chevre and brange-black pepper vinaigrette. My first thought was how distinctive this dish was. The lentils did resemble caviar and the velvety
chevre texture complemented each other nicely. My second thought was it could be a meal in itself.
Ordered without a second thought, my 97 year old Grandmother gets the rosemary roasted chicken with whipped yukon gold potatoes since it is the most simple of all the entrees. I didn't get any rosemary, but the skin was nicely crisped and potatoes sat in a meaty, twice-cooked chicken stock.
I ordered the braised Berkshire pork shoulder with pappardelle, roasted tomatoes and ramps. Again, the ramps were lost in this dish. The pork shoulder ragu was super light, and super good. Personally, I would have served the pork shoulder without the pasta at all and particularly since there were two pieces of pasta. Perhaps a piece of toasted bread?
 |
| Gorgeous |
The halibut with artichoke-basil barigoule which is a traditional Provençal dish of artichokes braised with onions, garlic and carrots
in a seasoned broth of wine and water. If I could have this dish year-round, it could turn me straight pescatarian!
A 'side' (entree size) of asparagus with oyster mushrooms, dry sherry and completely delicious. As a matter of fact, I've never had anything like it, nor enjoyed asparagus this much.
Rhubarb-Strawberry cobbler with creme was good, but not great. At least not great like I was hoping
for. The ratio of flour & oats was lacking and left a pool of liquid fruit.
Caramel Chocolate Tart with Olive Oil ice cream was a good combo, but heavy on the sea salt and olive oil. The ice cream should have a hint of olive oil, not taste like spoonfuls of olive oil (as indicated by the color).
Poole's is a fantastic addition to the Raleigh scene and applause to Christensen for both the modernization of space and Southern food!
