A Fork in the Road: Caracol (Houston, TX)

“Have you been to Caracol yet?” has become a pretty common question asked around Houston these days.  Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Café fame, has opened his new seafood-inspired restaurant in the Stewart Title building on Post Oak.  As I walk in, the interior stuns me.  Sure, it’s a very large space, but breathtakingly gorgeous. 

Recognizably, Ortega has outfitted his staff in matching Mexican shirts and black pants and there is plenty staff around, so service is not lacking.  We arrive on the early side (by 7pm, the noise level is pretty loud) and I start with a Paloma.  Tequila and just the right amount of Tajin infused soda for spice. 

An intense menu offers traditional appetizers as well as entrees, but also includes an impressive count of ceviches, soups and other Spanish starters.  Most of our diners chose an appetizer and entrée, but ordering two tapas size dishes certainly satisfies the most hungry diner. 

My friend, Liz, had suggested we order the Gulf wood-roasted oysters.  She was right…these did not

disappoint!  These dozen bivalves are served sizzling hot with chipotle butter and I could have easily had another few.  

The Chilpachole de Jaiba soup preparation was constructed beautifully around a blue soft shelled crab with mini masa dumplings floating about.  The flavors could have been a bit more complex, but enjoyable nonetheless. 

Again, the butterflied snapper steamed in a basket with adobo sauce was average when it came to seasoning.  In my experience, adobo sauce is rich and spicy which was not the case here, but the fish was expertly cooked.  

A chickpea stuffed masa pancake with the tangy avocado salad was delicious and filling.

Crispy duck, duck molote and chard with red pumpkin seed sauce was not the most visually appealing dish, but of all the entrees, had the most complexity.  

The chocolate dome was cracked open with a mallet where you find a frothy coconut filling inside.  It was a nice little surprise.

To be forgotten was their version of bananas foster with flavorless bananas and a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

While I leave Ortez’s restaurants completely full, I’m never fully satisfied.  The sides always make up for any lull with the food.  I am partial to the refried black beans; they would be part of my last meal on Earth.  The charred brussel sprouts are on skewers with a sweet sauce underneath.  There is always room for improvement in the seasoning regard, but at least it’s always consistent when it comes to cooking proteins and that’s why I always return.

A Fork in the Road: The Kitchen (Boulder, CO)

The Kitchen on Pearl Street has been regarded as one of the better restaurants in the Boulder area, so naturally, I was excited to try it.  It certainly may be one of the better restaurants in Boulder, but I wasn't sure if it was because it was trying too hard to be a 'world-class neighborhood restaurant' or farm-to-table.  My thought is they should stick to farm-to-table, then you don't go in with super high expectations.

The ambiance was enjoyable enough, but I found the food to be bland at best.

The ubiquitous grilled octopus with salsa verde - too chewy, though the tentacles were good mix with the greens and salsa verde and well-seasoned roasted root vegetables.

An insanely dry pork chop with a winning, creamy polenta.

Non-seasoned steak atop white (and pinto?!?!) beans.  At the very least, the chef should have used more salt.

A Fork in the Road: Bellissimo (Houston, TX)

Family-owned Bellissimo is in Houston's lovely Heights and also happens to be one of the more neighborhood-y joints in the area.  This growing neighborhood seems to be attracting more restaurateur types, so this is a distraction from the loud, indulgent menu restaurants.  It is a dark, quiet atmosphere that is BYOB (see my smile) with heavy Italian fare.  One thing I love about this menu is make-your-own pizza and pasta which can translate into putting together an entree pretty much any way you want.

Garlic shrimp appetizer - large shrimp in a puddle of butter, garlic and lemon. 

Red Snapper with a white wine, caper sauce served with angel hair pasta and sauteed spinach.  The diced tomatoes just don't do anything for this dish.  Unless tomatoes are vine-ripe, just forget them all together! 

It looks like alot 'cause it is alot!

I might have gone a tad overboard ordering the Red Snapper served with sautéed shrimp, crab meat, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil served in a white wine lemon butter sauce.  Not only did I get a hefty seafood portion, I just had to try the namesake pasta jalapeno fettuccine served with grilled chicken, black beans, fresh cilantro, diced jalapenos and tomatoes served in a Parmesan white wine butter sauce.  The pasta was a bit of a disappointment.  I think perhaps I was looking for a cream jalapeno sauce?  I don't know what I was thinking, but the 'jalapeno' pasta had no kick and dry to boot.  My suggestion is go with angel hair and a green.

Dessert special - Bavarian berry cream cake...lighter than you would think and delicious! 

BYOB, moist fish and price make Bellissimo a favorite; though I wish they would change the plate presentation.  It looks like something I'd get in a casino restaurant. 

A Fork in the Road: Capital Club 16 (Raleigh, NC)

Raleigh's Capital Club 16 isn't just a great restaurant with traditional American food, but the building itself has historical significance as well.  It was home to a men's literary and social club in the 1930's (more history here) and has been decorated to reflect the time period.  It is open and airy during the spring and summer and cozy in the winter.

We start the table with sliced bratwurst and a tomato curry sauce with fries.  For some reason, I always love starting a meal with fries and the zing of the tomato sauce was subtle and pleasant.

 

On to one of my favorite Southern dishes: pimento cheese.  These crostinis featured the spread with figs and Dutch apple jam.  Yum yum!  The sweetness of the jam and figs cut into the rich cheese. 

Arugula salad with local asiago and a lemon-pepper vinaigrette, which surprisingly didn't take away, to the already peppery arugula.  The oven roasted tomato was nice addition.

 

Chicken Valdostana - rolled chicken with Black Forest ham, provolone over a spaetzle, mushrooms and tomato sauce.  Easily the best dish we ordered and the spaetzle was cooked perfectly.

Local Catch of the Day

The Farmer's Wife - seasonal vegetable dish of cabbage, collards, roasted potatoes and spaetzle.

My 97 year old Grandma who still makes it out to 8pm dinner, Dad and me

Prices are extremely reasonable and atmosphere lovely.  I'd get there before popularity starts driving those prices up!

A Fork in the Road: Underbelly (Houston, TX)

You have to write fairly quickly when it comes to Underbelly given the frequent seasonal menu changes at Underbelly, but it is still blog-worthy.  Chris Shepherd is certainly considered one of the best chefs in Houston, if not the country; although I am not too sure how the menu tells 'The Story of Houston Food'.  He does use local ingredients, but the Creole-Houston story is confusing.  The menu is mostly family-style which didn't fare well with my folks and their friends, but it was somewhat enjoyable. 

Beet and goat cheese mixed greens

These market vegetables in caramelized fish sauce almost didn't have a photo at all!  I love when restaurants use fish sauce and these wax beans handle it well.  (Oh, please order the sourdough bread with chive butter that you see in the background.)

Seared duck breast - I've had better.  This was too chewy and under seasoned.

My favorite dish was the whole fish with roasted root vegetables.  They ask if you like it filleted or whole and I opted for the whole fish to practice my culinary school techniques.  Chef Gabe at ICC would have been proud!  Heck, the waitress even told me I was doing a great job.

One negative aspect of dinner at Underbelly is the noise level.  Now, I am not outdating myself, but it was even too loud for my club-loving ears.  My friend, Liz, said it is much more enjoyable at lunch.

A Fork in the Road: Lucille's (Houston, TX)

There are a few Southern restaurants in the Houston area and the Museum District Lucille's shows some promise in the category.  Chris Williams has created a menu from life experiences...spending summers with his grandmother cooking and traveling after graduating Le Cordon Bleu in Austin.  Williams traveled to Portugal and discovered the cooking of fresh fish and coincidentally, I began to have serious thoughts of attending culinary school after having a similar experience at Apeadeiro in Portugal.  His unique Southern cuisine does not include a heavy take on the dishes, rather a lighter approach. 

Fried Green Tomato appetizer with spicy aoili.  I wasn't blown away as I like the tomatoes a larger, but the bite-size chili biscuits were delish.

I was completely blown away with the entrees.  Blown away.

Purple nailpolish courtesy of Lauren Levicki

If there is one dish you should get on the menu, get the pork & beans.  This is not your typical sweet, saucy pork and navy beans, rather a hind shank with lima beans, English peas, black lentils agrocdolce reduction (in this case, an Italian sweet sauce).  The braised meat fell right off the bone and was truly sensational.  Very forward thinking when it comes to Southern dishes.

Equally exceptional was the fish fry.  A whole fish facing you with sweet basil succotash and fresh greens.  Like the pork, the fish could be pulled off the bones.  I fancy this presentation and eating with your hands!

Less successful were the oxtails with sweet potatoes.  I find oxtail difficult to eat when not prepared in a stew, but on the bones.  It ends up being alot of work for little reward.

The go-to Southern mac & cheese side

The desserts needs an entire makeover; so much so I didn't even like the bites  I had :-( and the presenatation was inconsistent from the first part of the meal.

The bread pudding was missing the vanilla-y gooey, bread in addition to the hard topping, but had the caramel.

A strawberry shortcake that I don't know could be considered as such.  Dry, tasteless cake with stems on the strawberries?  No, no, no!  Get a pastry chef in there!

Lucille's is the type of place I want to see succeed.  It has family history, Texas history, family values, passion and soon...an outdoor backyard with food and drink!

A Fork in the Road: Lucile's (Boulder, CO)

Lucile's, a 32-year old family establishment, is the breakfast institution of Boulder and its surrounding areas.  It also comes with a lengthy line that is totally worth the wait and the portions :-)
We had a large group which works out well for the reviewer who wants to try a bit of everything.  It's amazing Creole can taste this good in this part of the country.  We began with beignets and unsurprisingly, these weren't that good.  Unlike Cafe du Monde, they are not soft and doughy.  These are way too hallow and crispy; but on to better dishes....



See the partial piece behind?  It is a quarter of my biscuit!

Me first!  Eggs Rockefeller - scrambled eggs, steamed spinach, fried oysters and Rockefeller sauce which is essentially cream, herbs and a Pernod or Herbsaint liquer.  As if this isn't enough food already, they serve it with a side of grits and a HuGe biscuit.  The biscuit could be a meal itself, or broken into quarters to serve four....not joking.  Of course this was heavy, but given I hardly ate the grits or biscuit, the portion was great for me.  The Rockefeller sauce was good, but could have used a tiny more Pernod.  It needed a little BAM! ala Emeril.

Creole Omelet with spicy sausage and delicious.  I am a big fan of tomatoes integrated with eggs, but not the tomato/seafood combo with eggs.  This worked much better for me with the sausage/ham.  For a couple extra bucks, order the cheddar chive grits.  It is worth it.  Trust!

The simple Eggs Eisenhower of poached eggs, grits, bacon, and biscuit.  You want heavy?  Order Carlin County (background) sausage gravy over a biscuit, red beans and grits.  The sausage gravy was good, but could have used a little more sausage dripping with pepper instead of a cream, roux and sausage mix.

Lightest of the bunch was Eggs Jennifer with spinach, tomato, avocado, and poached eggs. 

The idea here is go big!  Zero portion control.  It's what Creole is all about.

Gorgeous drive to Boulder

A Fork in the Road: Istabul, Turkey Part I

This past October, my most favorita travel partner, Kerri and I traveled to Turkey for 8 days and spent it with what I like to call 'authentic locals'.  We had some lovely and fun experiences thanks to our gracious host, Ali.  We were very lucky to have a super knowledgeable guide taking us around Istanbul after having guides that were not-so-interesting on other trips.  Our trip was definitely enriched by having Ali giving history of landmarks, neighborhoods and most importantly, history of the empires. 

 

The evening we met, we made the decision to jump in a cab and head to a 'real' fishing town for dinner.  For those that apparently think Ortaköy is a fishing town (like us), you are wrong.  Instead, we head for Forsa Balık Restoran, a restaurant in the town of Samataya. 

Outside, overlooking the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and a full moon, we dined on the Sea of Marmara's bream and sea bass.  Naturally, the fish was fresh, and tasted as such; though I would choose grilled over anything fried. 

We had meze of muhammara (a spread having both Circassian and Syrian origins, prepared with from Aleppo pepper paste, ground walnuts, tomato paste, bread crumbs, garlic, and spices.  This was the best version I had in Turkey) and deniz borulcesi (looks like seaweed, tastes like seaweed...hey, it is seaweed but surprisingly delicious- always served with a pungent and tangy vinaigrette).
Ali ordered us an arugula salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes and carrots.  Why is it vegetables in other countries taste so much better? 



Me (left), Ali (center), Kerrita (right)

 

Ahhh, the Grand Bazaar.  Don't like it.  Especially the haggling.  Kerri and I went on a search forever looking for Kara Mehmet Kebap Salonu in the Bazaar and finally found it in a serene courtyard.  This courtyard is a perfect retreat from the bustle of the Grand Bazaar.  Let me tell you, this was worth the 45 minute search. 

Our pita appetizer

Unbelievable, tender, spicy meat kebabs served over rice and with cacik (yogurt, chopped cucumber with finely chopped garlic and mint leaf)....actually, the best we had in Turkey.  It should be, the guy has been cooking them for over 30 years.

......an equally delicious chicken kebap over rice with sumac onions and cabbage.  Even after this heavy food, we didn't feel the slightest bit sluggish.  That's sayin' something!

Kerri's Çay (Turkish tea) from next door served with a tiny Turkish Delight and my Turkish coffee.  I might be the only person that actually loves Turkish Delights.  Bring um on!

Iç Cebeci Han No: 92, Grand Bazaar

A Fork in the Road: Trio (Austin, TX)

Trio at the Four Seasons in Austin is mostly known for their incomparable Sunday Brunch; unfortunately, the same cannot be said for the dinner.  Considering how much I love the Four Seasons, I thought this would be a homerun.

Texas Shrimp with Chili Cocktail Sauce, but lacking chili.

The Republic Square Salad boasts housemade farm cheese, variety of colorful peppers, cherry tomatoes and a bizarre puffed rice addition.

Trio of melons with goat cheese and bacon would have been delightful had the melon had sweetness.

Quail with leek and pecan (another Texas favorite) dressing and blood orange marmalade.  Not surprising this was the overall standout in the appetizer section.  Quail was perfectly cooked and blended well with the acidity of the blood orange.

Again, unsurprisingly, the steaks are what to order here.  14oz bone-in Ribeye cooked perfectly medium-rare.

Grouper atop green mole, pea shoots and radish was under salted.  The fish was cooked nicely, but tasteless.  I was hoping for the mole to make the fish really pop, but it disappointed.

	Truffle mac&cheese - as long as you are going to use truffle oil (not my favorite), at least use enough to taste.
	Shiitake Mushroom Confit - oily
	Creamed, full leafed spinach with mascarpone and havarti- oily
	Crispy brussel sprouts with lemon
	Finally, an extremely over-buttered loaded baked potato with chorizo and scallions.  So much so that you couldn't taste the chorizo, or anything else for that matter.
	Trio is overpriced for quality, unless you are looking for a good steak, in which case, go to Original Hoffbrau (guys, it's still good).