A Fork in the Road: Apeadeiro (Cascais, Portugal)

Outside the buzzing metropolis of Lisbon is Cascais, just one of many suburban areas surrounding the capital.  It is the furthest point on the train and the ride is a lovely stretch of coast.  The early morning weather is glorious...cool temps and not a cloud in the sky and once I arrive, I sit on the beach, next to the fisherman's dock.

Cascais is an old fishing town and remains so, although not as bustling as it once was.  During the early to mid-morning hours, you can catch a glimpse of the fisherman docking the tiny boats and unloading their daily catch.

After two hours on the beach, I decide it is lunchtime and head to the neighborhood behind the main beach and marina.  Avenida Vasco da Gama it is a quaint street of fisherman living in modest apartments and homes near the sea.  This restaurant gem is known for grilled fish and piri-piri (the national hot pepper) shrimp.  I decided to get grilled sea bass served with steamed vegetables and a side of sauteed mushrooms.  I turn to the tables around me and see all the locals ranging from businessmen to families have ordered grilled sardines.  Immediately I regret my decision, but then the whole, grilled fish is placed in front of me and I am no longer upset. 

The fish are grilled with salt and nothing else.  Simple.  Classic and wonderful.  My favorite meal in Portugal.  I've have grilled fish before, but never so fresh.  I've also had steamed vegetables before, but never like this.  These, of course, were steamed with salt water to bring out more flavor.

If I am ever in Lisbon again, I will be heading to Cascais for this meal again.  Maybe even with a side of sardines!