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Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Porsena


A little more than a year ago, Sara Jenkins added lasagna to her miniature menu at Porchetta on East 7th Street.  It was an odd addition to the protein-filled 'restaurant', but was fabulously flavorful and foreshadowed things to come.  Since, she has opened her Roman-inspired pasta ristorante down the same street and wins not only with the innovative pasta dishes, but also takes reservations.  In case you haven't heard, reservations are coveted these days in the "No Reservation Generation" (Adam Platt).


Olive oil poached baby octopus with celery, chickpeas, lemon and olives.  Light oil and fresh ingredients as well as a fair amount of tentacle-y octopus.  Very Roman and superb! 


Savory whipped bacalau spread with toasted, oiled bread and actually more appealing to stateside diners due to the fact it was not salty to the extreme.



Anelloni with salsiccia e rape.  This is exactly what makes Jenkins a creative chef in a city of thousands of Italian chefs.. She chooses the ring-shaped pasta which has a ridge on the outsides that seals the sauce in the pasta alongside spicy lamb sausage, mustard greens and breadcrumbs.  An incredible textural contrast.



The Eggplant Parmesan I didn't care for.  The tasteless eggplant was swimming in a soupy bechamel sauce, although it was hidden under a thin layer of piping hot cheese.

Hence, why Porsena is regarded as the 'pasta restaurant' and rustic cooking at its finest.

Thursday, July 26, 2012

Bahari Estiatorio

Crossing the bridge to Astoria provides you with a plethora of Greek restaurants, but does not guarantee them to all be fantastic dining experiences.  Bahari is an exception AND it is half a block from the subway.  The restaurant has the typical 'Greek feel' with its white-washed walls, wooden chairs and fishing nets/rope/gear, but nothing unique in terms of decor.


Krya Pikilia platter of traditional spreads:
Taramosalata (roe mixed with mashed potatoes) usually has a distinctive roe taste, but this one had none.
Tzatziki (yogurt and cucumbers) used a high quality yogurt that was a bit firmer and held the cucumber well.
Skordalia (garlic) was another spread that should have a very strong jolt garlic taste and aftertaste.  This was lost in the puree.
Melintzanosalata (eggplant) was a whipped eggplant spread with nice proportions of lemon and garlic.
Tyrokafteri (peppers) was far-and-away the best dip.  The combination of red peppers, yogurt, lemon and garlic was well-balanced by feta.


Here's the deal with the 'appetizer' of moussaka.  The ingredients were all fresh, but there was a noticeable separation in each layer of potato, eggplant, ground beef and bechamel sauce.  The sauce shouldn't just fall off the top....


Baby lamb chops cooked well, but far from perfection and underseasoned.


Whole dorade was simply grilled with oil, lemon, salt and served with okra that was stewed.  I'm not sure it was supposed to have that texture, but was cooked in a light tomato sauce.


These peas were cooked down with oil, spinach, carrots and potatoes.  The real zinger of the dish was how well the vegetables were complimented by the dill and lemon.  This is such a simple dish to make at home!

Monday, July 23, 2012

Nai

Get. here. now. before many more Manhattanites uncover this East Village gem. 

Nai is now home to the now defunct tapas bar, Xunta.  Xunta was inexpensive and a neighborhood joint, and the food was always appetizing, but never superior in the world of tapas.  Nai's wide range of tapas are comparable to Spain's with their perfectly sized, mouthwatering portions.  If only my stomach was as big as my eyeballs.


Albondiguillas Estofadas - stewed, tender meatballs in a brandy sauce (great for dipping bread)


I love the presentation of the goat cheese balls sandwiched between bread, tomato and serrano.  Quite honestly, the bread could be lost all together.  These are fantastic!


Patatas Bravas are a traditional menu item, but these were served in the most non-traditional way.  I much prefer the potatoes to be crispy and drizzled with cream/mayo and hot sauce.  These were completely saturated in a hot sauce that wasn't particularly hot. 

Unfortunately, I forgot (after the first bottle of white wine) to snap photos of the salt-cod croquettes.  I devoured these whipped finger foods in under a minute!  The chorizo a la placha were also gone in under a minute.  The very tiny plates here are dangerouso!

As you are gorging on these little plates of heaven, wonderfully talented Flamenco dancers are stomping at Nai on Thursday and Saturday nights at 8:30pm.  You could only have a better experience in Spain itself!




Sunday, July 22, 2012

Tabonette

When I saw sabich on the chalkboard menu, I started to grin.  So few places in New York have sabich, so I was excited to try their version.  Unfortunately, it didn't meet any expectations I had.


The pita was too thick then the egg was quartered!!! and mixed in with the Israeli salad.  That wasn't even the bad part.  There was a salty/chewy piece of eggplant and all was blanketed in an exorbitant amount of amba (mango curry sauce).  This sauce is one of my very favorite things in the world, but this amba was pureed instead of liquefied.  It was too 'fruity' for this type of sandwich.

I will be returning, but not for sabich (the honors still go to Taim).  The plain Israeli salad looked fresh and delicious as well as the chicken kebab platter!

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

The Lovin' Cup Cafe

The Drunk Brunch for $15 is a mighty good deal at The Lovin' Cup Cafe in Williamsburg. Options aren't exactly high-end, but tasty enough especially with three drinks.  Plus, tater tots make great hangover food. 


Make sure you ask for your mimosa with just a splash of OJ, otherwise you'll be having three glasses of orange juice.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

A Fork in the Road: Masraff's (Houston, TX)

Dining at Masraff's on Post Oak is significantly different from the old, rustic free-standing Masraff's, but not in terms of cuisine (which is still top notch).  It is now somewhat a Vegas dining experience with its colorful lighting fixtures and super contemporary furniture, but has great energy nonetheless.
Not often do I find glitzy restaurants serving large portions also falling into the 'high-quality' category, but this is where the Masraff father/son duo succeed.


I begin with the Boston Wedge Salad with English Cucumber Relish, feta and aged balsamic.  Quite a refreshing salad and was not too filling. 


Baby spinach, creamed goat cheese, onion confit, walnuts tossed with garlic vinaigrette.


Loved their take on Caprese with Kumato tomatoes.  Kumatos are a little less acidic and balanced nicely with the mozzarella.


Rich avocado soup with lump crab meat.


Normally, I have a severe aversion to tuna tartare.  Chopped up tuna mixed with avocado has never excited me, but this tuna tartare was divine.  Every tatare dish has now been ruined because this one is simply amazing.  Not only is the quality of fish superb, but the presentation beautifully created with wakami goma, campari tomato and tobiko vinaigrette.


Perfectly seared lump crab cake, beurre blanc, red wine reduction, and saffron aioli. 


An unfortunate dry Nova Scotia halibut, butternut squash, baby carrots, charred green cauliflower, yellow beet and tobiko vinaigrette.


Filet Mignon al a Plancha, fingerling potatoes, baby green beans, smoked bacon and mushroom ragout.  Deliciouso!


This special fish loaded with crab meat and shrimp atop of farro, a well-received accompaniment, and spinach was a nice combination.  This is definitely enough for two (though maybe not in Texas).


Passion fruit, lemon and strawberry sorbet terrine.  Creamy, tart and sweet!


I was super excited for this dessert.  The peach creme brulee.  What was supposed to be Texas peach creme brulee, was actually brulee in peaches and not executed very well, sadly enough.  The peaches were very hard and not sweet at all.




Wednesday, June 27, 2012

A Fork in the Road: Il Capriccio (Whippany, NJ)

Old-school Il Capriccio seemingly only attracts regulars, which I have to believe is a good thing.  The dining area is anything but subtle with loud carpet, chairs and the dining room centerpiece overloaded with various size wine bottles.  However, it doesn't take away from the excellence of food here, Italian waiters that have been there for years and a lovely patio perfect for a summer evening. 


Burrata appetizer.  I always try burrata when available, but none like here, although this burrata was a light and refreshing alternative.


Tuna tartare served with onion and Gaeta olives over farro.  The farro livened up the tatare giving it an entirely different texture. 


Farmer's salad of fresh tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, Bermuda onion and summer corn.  I just can't get enough corn!  Especially when it is showcased with other vegetables, not covered with lettuce.


The off-the-menu fish of the day (branzino) cooked whole in a salted crust.  So rarely do you see that on menus these days.  It's truly a beautiful sight.  The fish is cracked tableside and there is aromatic hit of fresh herbs and lemons.  Your waiter takes time fileting the fish, placing it on the dish,  drizzling olive oil, then a quick heat on the burner and voila.  More than enough fish for two....though I ate all of mine :-)  I'm only sorry I didn't get an action shot of cracking the crust!

If you are in the area, the fish is NOT TO MISS! 

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Donatella


This was the BEST Strawberry Shortcake I have ever eaten!  By a landslide.  Donatella's post will be reversed starting with the magnificent desserts.  The seasonal strawberry shortcake was a soft, non-biscuit (no taste of butter) biscuit with a hard, sugary top.  In the middle?  Homemade whipped cream and sweet strawberries with an ever so tiny scoop of strawberry rhubarb sorbet.  P.e.r.f.e.c.t.i.o.n! 


I was equally impressed with the off-the-menu ice cream sandwiches.  Smaller than your palm, these round beauties' top and bottom layers were Italian tricolore cookies with slivers of ganache.  Some of diners thought it was too sweet, but I didn't share that sentiment.


Affogato is always a simple dessert with a small scoop of vanilla gelato.  These "biscotti" were actually small cookies (ones I did deem sweet, but fabulous nonetheless).

Moving right along to the pizzas....also some of the best personal pizzas I've had in New York.  Doughy, thin-crust with fresh ingredients. 


Classic Margarita


Diavola with spicy, slivered salami and chili oil.  This pizza had the perfect amount of heat.


Enzo - Smoked Mozzarella, pork-fennel sausage, broccoli rabe and pecorino.  Instead of plain jane spicy or sweet sausage,  I absolutely love the fennel sausage in addition to the sauteed rabe.  This was unreal!


Polpette - Veal Meatballs and Caciocavallo (a teardrop cheese that is left to mature 'a cavallo' i.e. straddling a horizontal stick) 


A ricotta gnocchi that gives April Bloomfield a run for her money.  Served with summer corn, basalmic, parmagiano, and chives.


A luscious mixed green salad with lemon citronette, candied walnuts and pecorino.


Our starter of spicy, braised veal meatballs.  Soft, perfectly spiced and sized.  If you are deciding between Polpette (meatball pizza) or a side of meatballs, get the meatballs.  The pizza doesn't do these meatballs justice.

AND you have to love the bottle and wine glass chandeliers! 

Friday, June 15, 2012

More than decent non-Curry Row Indian

It's nice to have finally stumbled upon an Indian restaurant that is in the middle of the high-end to cheap take out range (excluding Curry Hill of course).  Equally nice, Masala Wala is on the Lower East Side central to the East Village and Nolita and remains somewhat undiscovered, unfortunately.  Both times I've visited, I have only been one of the two tables dining.  Perhaps the too hot or too cold temperature in uninviting, but the waiters and owner are down to earth and will accommodate  your temperature change request.

On my first visit, a girlfriend and I shared Dilli Aloo Tikki: potato croquettes stuffed with peas and herbs.  They had spicing, but were pan-fried and fairly oily. 


We go on to split Chicken Tikka Masala and Saag Paneer.  While Chicken Tikka was a safe choice, and creamy sans spice, the Saagwala was the obvious winner.  Little cubes of cheese immersed in creamed, herbed spinach. 


I loved the mixing of the mint coriander and tamarind sauces!  Lovely to look at and to dip naan.


The second visit proved Masala Wala to be consistent and the Chicken Vindaloo was average (tasty), but hardly worthy of an actual Vindaloo.  There was absolutely no heat factor!


The chicken samosas were dry and uneventful.  I've had better at the Whole Foods hot bar. 

For reasonably priced Indian food, especially for delivery, it's worth it!

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Despana

A nice breezy afternoon Soho stroll should include a bocadillo while you sit on a bench outside Despana.  The no-fuss sandwich from the Spanish gourmet market on Broome Street had slices of butifarra sausage, goat cheese and a tomato-garlic spread all warm pressed between soft ciabatta (Catalan).  A couple weeks prior, I indulged in The Spaniard at Murray's Cheese which was buttered Pullman toast with melted manchego, Serrano, marinated peppers and membrillo spread.  That, my friends, was gluttonous.  As in, not even hungry for dinner six hours later.  I thought I'd be going down the same path with the Catalan, but this was the perfect lunch sandwich.