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Friday, May 6, 2011

SHUTTERED: Nuela Ambitious

Nuela reminds me of my short-lived, club-hopping days in good 'ole Miami. Almost all new dining establishments in Flatiron lack grand food to justify their grand spaces. Not Nuela. They have the goods to back it.

First thing I see, round corn balls which serves as their 'bread' served with mascarpone cheese drizzled with olive oil. Sweet and sour.

The ceviche bar was staffed with two ceviche chefs that prepared ceviche made-to-order. The Mixto Mariscos (lobster/shrimp/crab/octopus) had a light, charred tomato sauce. The rocoto pepper provided the heat and spicy, apple-tinged flavor.

The market fish was snapper and prepared traditionally in lime with red onion.

I must say, watching the ceviche being prepared was more enjoyable than the ceviches themselves. While fresh, they are overpriced ($16 each) for a small amount as well as difficult to decipher which shellfish you were tasting with the Mixtos.

I went against the grain (a restaurant known for it's arroz con pato (essentially duck paella), and ordered a quarter roasted suckling pig. When it arrived, I wasn't sure what was going on...Spanish-Asian fusion??? But HOLY MOLY! This was one of the best pieces of pork I've ever had!!!!

Served with scallion pancakes, cumin lime rice and a pink peppercorn guava sauce, it was a wonderful balance of protein and carb. Each bite was a new, different bite. It was......delicious!

Asparagus - brown butter, aji amarillo & white soy

The restaurant itself is a little cheesy with its black and burgundy colors with actual tourists from Miami trying to speak over the club music. The kitchen should be showcased more. It is a wall of beautiful, ridged, frosted glass panes and randomly placed clear-hinged panes to see the kitchen and its staff. The waiters were attentive, but not too overwhelming.

Don't forget the bar snack of roasted corn with onion and bacon!

Nuela 43 West 24th Street(212) 929-1200
http://www.nuelany.com/

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