A Fork in the Road: Istabul, Turkey Part I

This past October, my most favorita travel partner, Kerri and I traveled to Turkey for 8 days and spent it with what I like to call 'authentic locals'.  We had some lovely and fun experiences thanks to our gracious host, Ali.  We were very lucky to have a super knowledgeable guide taking us around Istanbul after having guides that were not-so-interesting on other trips.  Our trip was definitely enriched by having Ali giving history of landmarks, neighborhoods and most importantly, history of the empires. 

 

The evening we met, we made the decision to jump in a cab and head to a 'real' fishing town for dinner.  For those that apparently think Ortaköy is a fishing town (like us), you are wrong.  Instead, we head for Forsa Balık Restoran, a restaurant in the town of Samataya. 

Outside, overlooking the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and a full moon, we dined on the Sea of Marmara's bream and sea bass.  Naturally, the fish was fresh, and tasted as such; though I would choose grilled over anything fried. 

We had meze of muhammara (a spread having both Circassian and Syrian origins, prepared with from Aleppo pepper paste, ground walnuts, tomato paste, bread crumbs, garlic, and spices.  This was the best version I had in Turkey) and deniz borulcesi (looks like seaweed, tastes like seaweed...hey, it is seaweed but surprisingly delicious- always served with a pungent and tangy vinaigrette).
Ali ordered us an arugula salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes and carrots.  Why is it vegetables in other countries taste so much better? 



Me (left), Ali (center), Kerrita (right)

 

Ahhh, the Grand Bazaar.  Don't like it.  Especially the haggling.  Kerri and I went on a search forever looking for Kara Mehmet Kebap Salonu in the Bazaar and finally found it in a serene courtyard.  This courtyard is a perfect retreat from the bustle of the Grand Bazaar.  Let me tell you, this was worth the 45 minute search. 

Our pita appetizer

Unbelievable, tender, spicy meat kebabs served over rice and with cacik (yogurt, chopped cucumber with finely chopped garlic and mint leaf)....actually, the best we had in Turkey.  It should be, the guy has been cooking them for over 30 years.

......an equally delicious chicken kebap over rice with sumac onions and cabbage.  Even after this heavy food, we didn't feel the slightest bit sluggish.  That's sayin' something!

Kerri's Çay (Turkish tea) from next door served with a tiny Turkish Delight and my Turkish coffee.  I might be the only person that actually loves Turkish Delights.  Bring um on!

Iç Cebeci Han No: 92, Grand Bazaar