A Fork in the Road: Lisbon, Portugal

Cafe no Chiado:

Beautifully situated and decorated, next to the San Luis de Teatro, with a design of mid-century modern wood and Gothic stones. The walls are library-like with real books as well as wall lithographs with books stacked and floating all around. As expected, there is an after theatre crowd as well as the famous Tram 28 passing the front of the restaurant, yet somehow it isn't a tourist trap.

I try to keep the pao (bread) consumption to a minimum, but it proves to be difficult. This bread has a trio of butter, olive spread and what else? A bacalau spread. Instead of ordering a cod dish, I decide upon arroz con pato (duck with rice Portuguese style). I'm delighted to see it is served with a green salad, barely dressed. The duck is tender, cooked in bacon fat, but the Portuguese style rice was hard on top, soft underneath. The composition was nice, although I was not blown away. I was blown away by the chocolate mousse. It is fluffy and rich with dark chocolate chips that I eat gladly with eat bite. It was quite possibly the best chocolate mousse, or dessert for that matter, that I've ever had!

http://www.cafenochiado.com/

Bonjardim:

Typically, restaurants located in the largely tourist areas are mediocre, and then there’s Bonjardim.  Their specialty is spit-fired roasted chicken and it is succulent.  There’s only one other chicken I like better (ahem, Mr. Waxman).  It is served as a half or whole and is best with fritas (fries) and the best side salad I had in Portugal.

Travessa de Santo Antão 11 Lisbon +213 427 424

Kaffee Haus:

I just had to have a salad one evening, so I hit an Austrian café in the Chiado.  Just mixed greens, pine nuts and a terrine of cheese.  Light, high cheese quality and a killer vinaigrette.  No English menus.

Rua Anchieta 3 Lisbon

Café de Sao Bento:

Quiet, like a private club, with dark red and mahogany walls and red velvet chairs, where Parliament members come to dine.  The Portuguese steak arrives piping hot and as the waiter suggested medium-well. Much to my surprise, it isn’t chewy, but tender and red through the middle.  He says, ‘It’s not Argentinean meat, but it’s good’.  I beg to differ!  This beef cooked in olive oil, garlic; laurel (of the bay leaf family) has very interesting flavor.

The cheesecake….made in house.  I have my doubts. I mean, I’m a New Yorker!  Home of Italian Americans and traveler of Italy.  It arrives.  It IS made in house unlike American ricotta cheesecake where it is difficult to tell the ricotta from the sugar.  This is tasty, fluffy ricotta.  Impressive.

Rua de São Bento 212  1200 Lisbon

(Many thanks to Antonio of Cafe de Sao Bento for providing photos for this piece)